Basic Sewing Process For Luggage

Jun 27, 2022

1. Stubble stitching method.

Stubble stitching is a common method used in the production of products. In this method, the edge of the upper pressed part is folded (there are also rough edges), the stitching line is drawn on the edge of the lower pressed part and coated with adhesive, the edge of the lower pressed part is chipped with grain surface layer, and then the edge of the upper pressed part is pressed on the edge of the lower pressed part, the two parts overlap each other, the width of the overlap is determined by the number of stitches needed, usually 8~15mm.

The first line is sewn first, the first line is 2~3mm from the edge, the second line is 5~12mm from the first line, of course there are only one stitch or three stitches, depending on the product chart stubble sewing process.

The stubble stitching method is strong, smooth and beautiful, and is widely used. This sewing method is often used in the sewing of leather cases and leather bags.

2. Backstitching method

The backstitching method is to overlap two parts face to face and sew them on the sewing machine with the stitching line on the opposite side of the part. Before sewing, the edge of the two parts are cut evenly, and the edges are trimmed neatly with a scribe. When sewing, the two parts are overlapped face to face with the two edges flush, then a line is sewn at the edge according to the specified value of the sewing allowance, and the two parts are unfolded vertically or flattened out after sewing, depending on the process requirements. Sometimes it is necessary to sew a seam on each side of the seam line to make the connection between the parts flatter.

Backstitching is widely used in the production of bags, especially for soft structured bags. The characteristics of this sewing method are: the stitching line is not exposed, so that the stitching line can be avoided to be worn out and caused by stripping; the connection between the two parts is smooth; the operation is easy and efficient.

3. Turning seam method

Turning seam is based on the backstitching. It can be used in the edging, along the mouth and bottom of the bag of luggage products.

Before sewing, the thick and thin slices of the edges of the parts are cut evenly, and when sewing, the two parts with the cut slices are overlapped with the face and the two sides are flush, and a line is first sewn at 2-3mm from the edge, then the two parts are spread out and flattened, so that the opposite side is overlapped with the reverse side, and the seam is scraped flat.

Then sew a line at 3mm or 10~15mm from the edge. This is shown in Figure 12-15. The first stitch is not exposed, and the second and third stitches make the part sewn firmly and the edge is flat and smooth.

4. Roll stitching method

Roll stitching is based on backstitching. It is carried out on the basis of backstitching. It is generally used to roll the edges of the parts.

Before stitching, cut the thick and thin slices of the edge of the part evenly, and cut the rolled strip skin, which is available in the color of the rolled strip and the different color of the rolled strip, the thickness of which should be evenly cut, and the thickness is 0.2~0.5mm. If the rolled edge requires thicker rolled strip, the rolled strip skin should be thicker, and if it requires fine rolled strip, the rolled strip skin should be thinner. When sewing, the two parts are cut to fit the two sides together, first sewing at 2~3mm away from the edge, then unfold the two parts, fold the strip to the opposite side, and apply glue on the reverse side of the strip.

Then the two parts are unfolded, the rolled leather is folded to the opposite side, the adhesive is applied to the reverse side of the rolled leather, the adhesive is applied to the upper edge of the reverse side of the part, the rolled leather is glued to the edge, and a line is sewn on the edge of the front rolled edge. 

This sewing method is often used in luggage products, especially in the production of women's leather bags. Such as piping, piping, piping at the joints of parts and components, etc. The characteristics of this stitching method are: rounded edges, smoothness and firmness.

5. Overlocking method

Overlock stitching is to wrap one part around the edge of another part. Before sewing, the edge of the part is cut straight, the position of the wrap line is drawn, the wrap skin is cut, and the thickness of the wrap skin is cut evenly, generally 0.3-0.6mm.

When sewing, apply adhesive on the reverse side of the wrap, and glue the wrap to the edge of the other part. The two edges of the hemmed skin are aligned with the drawn lines to ensure a straight hemmed edge. After the glue dries, a line is sewn 2-4 mm away from the edge of the wrapping.

The characteristics of this sewing method are: simple operation, smooth, neat and beautiful edge. This method is generally used for the bag mouth of the leather case, the edge of the connection between various leather bag parts and components, the edge of the bag mouth and the edge of the bag cover, etc.

6. Inset stitching method

Inlaid seam is inlaid line in the middle of the two parts of the joint stitching, inlaid line has a solid core inlaid line and false core inlaid line two. Solid core inlay in the middle of the inlay line wrapped with paper core paper, yarn core paper and plastic rib, the inlay line in the middle of the core product molding line outline rounded and full, dummy core inlay in the middle of the inlay line is not wrapped core. Whether to use the core in the middle of the inlay is based on product design needs.

The inlay stitching process is mostly used for the connection of soft boxes, soft structure packages of the fan and wall sub and other components. Before stitching, the two parts are cut at the edge, and the thickness is cut evenly, and the inlay skin is cut at the same time, the width of the inlay skin is 15~18mm for dummy core and 18~25mm for solid core.

When sewing, first fold the inlay skin from the middle, the middle of the solid core inlay should be wrapped with thread, and the middle of the dummy core inlay should not be wrapped with thread. The edge of the inlay is flush with the edge of the part, and when sewing the - line, the inlay is sewn on the edge of the part, the stitching is 2~3mm away from the edge, the stitching distance should not be too close, 4~6 stitches per 25mm is appropriate. After inlay stitching, the other side of the part is compounded to the inlay, and the edge is flush with the edge, and the - line is sewn 3~4mm from the edge, the stitch distance can be slightly closer than the - line, and 5~7 stitches are sewn every 25mm.

This sewing method is characterized by: no exposed stitches, clean surface, prominent inlay at the connection of the two parts, rounded and beautiful contour lines, but the operation is more complicated.

7. Flat sewing method

Flat stitch is a method of sewing on a flat surface. This sewing method is often applied only for decoration, that is, on a single part. The pattern is drawn on the surface first, and then the stitching is done according to the drawn lines. Such as the decoration of the leather case folder and the decoration of the bag body and bag cover, etc.

8. Zigzag stitching method

The zigzag stitching method is a kind of splicing method after two parts are docked, both parts do not need sewing allowance, the presser foot of the sewing machine moves back and forth between the two parts and the stitch is zigzag shaped. It is generally used for the splicing of edges and the decoration of parts.